September 23, 1999. Copyright, 1999, Graphic News. All rights reserved A RUGBY TOURISTÕS BRIEF GUIDE TO WALES By Margot Nesdale LONDON, September, Graphic News NORTH WALES: AS YOU cross the frontier from England to north Wales the billboard says ÒCroeso i CymruÓ. The welcome sign is the first hint that this spiritual home of Rugby Union has carved out a unique identity. Rugby runs in the veins of the Welsh but the nationÕs arteries are pumped with history, ancient castles, and breathtaking scenery. The warmth of the Welsh is legendary and the survival of their mother tongue indicates a fierce national pride. Travelling in Wales is cheaper than in England but the food is somewhat unremarkable. However, the nation that has spawned such celebrities as Richard Burton and Anthony Hopkins continues to woo foreigners with unsurpassable medieval architecture. The English monarch King Edward 1 built a string of fortresses in north Wales to ward off Welsh nationalists. One of the most impressive is found in Conwy, reputed for being the best example of a medieval walled town in Europe. Ironically, one of the townÕs biggest attractions is the smallest house in Great Britain, listed in the Guinness Book of Records. The last occupant of the 72 inch (1.83m) wide by 122 inch (3.1m) high property was amazingly, a 6 ft 3 in (1.9m) tall fisherman. At the heart of nationalist Wales is Caernarfon, which attracted worldwide attention when Queen Elizabeth ceremonially invested Prince Charles as Prince of Wales at its castle in 1969. Those looking for the Great Welsh outdoors should head inland to the massive national park of Snowdonia. About half a million people reach the rugged summit of Snowdon (3,560 ft / 1,085m) each year, either by foot or train. North of Caernarfon lies Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, the gateway to Anglesey Island, which is famous for having the worldÕs longest place name. Translated it means The church of Mary in the hollow of the white hazel near the fierce whirlpool and the church of Tysilio by the red cave! SOUTH WALES: CARDIFF has drop-kicked its image as a dull provincial backwater. The vibrant capital and focal point of south Wales is about to showcase a 72,500-seat Millennium stadium, two world-class hotels, and a waterfront development to rugby fans worldwide. The Welsh Assembly building and a multi-purpose arts centre will open in the new millennium. Rugby fans will feel truly at home in a city awash with more than 350 pubs and bars plus fine restaurants and shops. Another rugby stronghold is cup venue Llanelli, the town still so proud of its triumphant 9-3 win over the All-Blacks at Stradey Park in 1972. The goal posts at the park are topped with red saucepans, a link with the tin plate works which used to be the townÕs main industry. North east of Llanelli is WalesÕ ultimate romantic ruin, Carreg Cennen Castle, perched high on a 300 ft (91m) crag with stunning views. Further west is Laugharne, Dylan Thomas territory. Tourists flock here to see the boathouse where he spent his last four years, the shed where he wrote Under Milk Wood, and BrownÕs Hotel, the pub where he drank regularly. If you stop in for a pint, donÕt expect to feel welcome. Although a shrine to Thomas has been erected inside the pub, the patrons appear to regard tourists as a huge imposition. Tenby is also extremely popular, with elegant Georgian architecture and menacing castle ruins. However the jewel in the crown of South Wales is the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. While the beaches in the south are marred by caravan parks the more exposed north coast is still virtually untouched and offers some of the best treks in Britain. Inland is St DavidÕs, named after the famous patron saint of Wales, who founded a monastery here in the 6th century. The current cathedral dates to the 12th century. The coastline to Fishguard is so unspoilt that the beaches can only be reached by tiny winding lanes. Dylan Thomas fans should also visit Fishguard, the backdrop for the 1971 film version of Under Milk Wood, which starred Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. /ENDS